Bosnia & Herzegovina

We waved goodbye to Croatia and the Dalmatian coast on the 8am bus travelling to Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH). We passed through border control not just once but three times (due to the bus route going back into Croatia again for no real reason)! Arriving in Mostar it was immediately apparent that we had changed countries. BiH is an incredible mix of West and East as a result of over 400 years of Ottoman Turk rule, with half the population following Islam and the rest mostly Christian (a mix of Catholic and Eastern Orthodox). The mix of different religions can be seen clearly around Mostar, with mosque towers across the town announcing regular prayer calls alongside giant Christian crosses on the tops of the surrounding hills. After a pleasant and significantly cheaper lunch than usual, we strolled the historic cobbled old town and the river that runs through the centre of the town dividing West from East. The town suffered great tragedy and destruction during the Bosnian war in the 1990s, with the west and east sides divided against each other. The east side (largely Muslim population) experienced the greatest level of destruction. The iconic old bridge (Stari Most) was destroyed during the war, after standing for over 400 years, and was rebuilt in 2004. The town appears unified, but with two bus stations, two hospitals, and two school systems there remains a divide between ethnic communities. We stayed on the Eastern side of the river with an absolutely lovely AirBnB host, like so many others of our hosts along our journey. 

The following day we went in search of local buses to a nearby town. After some confusion and unclear instructions we found the bus stop and took the local yellow bus to Blagaj to see an Islamic Dervish Tekija (house/monastery) located at the source of the Buna river (one of Europe's largest water sources) beneath towering cliffs. A very peaceful setting, where we enjoyed a Bosnian coffee, Turkish delight, and baklava. On arrival back in Mostar we went for a traditional local dinner of kebab (meat stew with rice) and vegetables in rice. The food also has strong Eastern influences, mixing with the Balkan favourites of meat and stew. 

Next we took a train from Mostar to Sarajevo, riding through mountain valleys along the mighty Neretva river, serenaded by the excellent onboard 70s and 80s rock music playing through the train speakers. That morning we went for a free walking tour of Sarajevo with a likeable guide, and learnt that BiH had been occupied for most of its history (including by the Ottoman empire and Austro-Hungary), about the assassination of Franz Ferdinand that triggered WW1 (on Latin Bridge) and that there is a high unemployment rate in Sarajevo since the war in the 90s (63% of young people). We then went for some delicious lunch in a buffet restaurant recommended by the guide, before heading to the Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide. It was incredibly sad, sharing first hand stories of torture, rape and genocide of the Bosniak population during the Bosnian war, as well as detailed accounts and video footage of the siege of Sarajevo between 1992 and 1996. The museum was a greatly shocking, but enriching experience. The next day we relaxed and explored the city, and ate more delicious Bosnian food. We then headed up a hill overlooking the city for the sunset. As we drank a beer, the sun went behind the hills and the sky turned red, while the mosques across the city started their sunset prayer call. 

The following afternoon we headed to East Sarajevo to explore the area before catching a bus to Sutjeska National Park. The bus turned out to be a very local mini bus, and we had to stand or sit in the aisle for most of the journey! We arrived at our camp in the national park, and were greeted by a very friendly scruffy dog who followed us around everywhere. We were staying in a little wooden hut just big enough for a bed, in a nice site with mountains around. The following morning we hitchhiked up the hill into the national park. We were dropped off at the Dragoš Sedlo view point, where we started our hike through the last primeval forest in Europe. Two and a half hours later we emerged from the forest, having not spotted another soul the entire walk - it was an amazing forest with ancient plants and undergrowth. We were met with incredible views of the surrounding mountains and the peak of Maglić, the highest point in BiH. While trying to find some drinking water in some camping huts overlooking the valley, we were greeted by the owner (Banjo) and his friends, who turned out to be a fantastically friendly, generous, and welcoming person. He offered for us to stay in his camping cabins for the night, and although we had our bags in the previous camp and had paid for the night there, the views and setting were too amazing to refuse his offer. We arranged to meet him later, and headed for a walk to a pretty nearby lake, which was actually located over the border into Montenegro. Upon arriving back we were warmly welcomed by Banjo and his friends at his mountain home. He made us a delicious meal of veal and potato roast with fresh salad and ćevapi (local Balkans sausages) - it was so good that even Jem (a veggie) ate the meat! We washed down the meal with a few tasty glasses of homemade Rakija (local liquor - 46%), generously offered by our hosts. After watching an incredible sunset over the mountains we all moved inside to the warmth of Banjo's home, and of course had more Rakija! After the fun evening of socialising, largely in Bosnian with no understanding of the conversation, we retired to bed in Banjo's own private cabin at his home whilst he and his friends slept on bunk beds in the main house.